Lead: Who is the most popular with women among today’s big-name designers? If you don’t know Phoebe Philo, it’s not too late. (Article source: Bund Fashion)
When the news that she left the creative director of Céline was confirmed, there was a "cry" on social media, and many media and commentators paid tribute to Phoebe Philo with "the end of an era".
Fans are more anxious: Without Phoebe Philo’s Céline, can you buy it in buy buy with confidence?
It is precisely because of this that Céline’s spring and summer of 2018, as the last show of her term, has attracted the attention of the whole world. I have to say, she brought us an outstanding closing performance.
It is after this show that the new sales of 2018 have increased greatly.
These smart wide shoulder pads are the best witness.
The most amazing thing is that a few matching double-layer cloak coats, leaving only one button at the neckline, are very cool when walking. This is purely about the beauty of fashion art.
Why do we miss Phoebe Philo so much? It all started 20 years ago.
From Chloé to Céline,
The glory of Phoebe Philo began.
Phoebe, an Englishman born in Paris, graduated from Central Saint Martin at the age of 23. She entered Chloé in 1997 and became an assistant to Stella McCartney, then creative director.
With excellent taste and design skills, she quickly grew into the second-in-command of brand design in Chloé.
In 2001, Stella McCartney left Chloé and started her own business.
While everyone was speculating who would be Stella’s successor, the brand directly announced the appointment of 27-year-old Phoebe as the new design director.
Since then, Phoebe’s high-waisted jeans, lolita fashion’s doll dresses and wooden wedge-heeled shoes have become the signature items of Chloé.
Then, Phoebe suggested to the brand executives to expand Chloé’ s business to the field of bag accessories, so the turnover of handbag accessories began to become the main force of Chloé’ s profit.
As a result, several classic It Bag were born, such as Paddington and Edith series bags.
It is said that the first batch of Paddington Paddington bags had been booked before they were actually put on the shelves.
At that time, Phoebe’s design had its own climate, giving priority to pragmatism, and instead of chasing the trend, it became a trendsetter.
In 2004, she can be said to be the winner of a double harvest in her love career-she married Max Wigram, an art dealer, and in the same year, she won the designer of the year award of the British Fashion Awards with her impressive sales performance.
Two years later, Phoebe made an amazing decision to resign from Chloé and devote herself to her family.
After leaving Chloé for two years, Phoebe was immersed in a sweet family life.
It was not until 2008 that LVMH invited her to come out of the mountain to save the crumbling Céline at that time that she returned to the public eye.
However, as a condition, Phoebe asked to stay in Paris only two days a week, and continue to complete the design in London the rest of the time, so that she could continue to accompany her children.
Phoebe’s brand debut is the 2010 early spring holiday series released in the form of Lookbook. From this series, we can see the change of her "female identity".
From a girl to a mother, the design style has also changed from a "girl" to an "independent and powerful commuter woman", but she has always been herself.
Let’s take a look at her first fashion collection. This show is mainly based on a large number of earth colors, and the silhouette and leather materials are sharply cut, which has won the first fans for Phoebe.
Phoebe, who often shows people in a simple and capable style, is simply the best spokesperson of Céline. She has a cold temperament in her bones, a little shy but a firm eye.
And this photo of her show curtain call wearing turtle neck, black slim pants and Stan Smith is still regarded as a classic moment.
This style has also led the trend for a long time, and Stan Smith has become a must-have item for fashionistas.
Putting your hair in turtle neck is also a styling inspiration that I learned from Phoebe.
Besides being a fashion designer, Phoebe is more like a fashion idol. Her design seems to take herself as a model of inspiration, and the design origin also falls on her.
Phoebe’s style in LVMH Prize, she also likes to wear a coat in private.
As she said in the interview after her debut:
"My dress style reflects me, and these clothes are an extension of my own style.
I want to build a wardrobe for women instead of chasing the so-called trend. I want to solve the problem. "
Looking back at Phoebe’s ten years in Céline, this original intention has always been regarded as her creed in design and creation, and she has carried it out to the end.
So-called feminism is like this. Take yourself as a starting point to understand the real needs of women.
If you want to know the private life story of Phoebe Philo, I’m afraid you’ll be disappointed.
Because she is too low-key, there is no out-of-the-box high-profile remarks and gossip, and she does not rely too much on social media. She does not have her own INS account, and she lives in seclusion and speaks by her works.
Even Céline, which she is in charge of, is so tonality, and there is no explosion joint name that grabs the front page, and there is no grand show device.
Even when choosing a brand spokesperson, she is only willing to choose those women who can best embody the female spirit, such as Faye Wong, who has great personality and influence, which fits the brand spirit of Céline.
What classic items did Phoebe bring us?
Phoebe Philo has no intention of chasing the trend, but always creates the trend and becomes the imitation object of others.
However, her design is destined to belong to a carnival in a small group and become the heart of those who refuse kitsch, have strong personality and really appreciate the beauty of clothes.
Even though they may be expensive and mostly basic, they are fashionable clothes that will not go out of fashion.
Phoebe’s design is by no means designed for women who just want to please men. Her clothes are full of design sense, durable and practical, but out of date, walking freely and meeting the needs of daily life.
Secondly, in her design, she also borrowed the inspiration of men’s tailoring.
For example, those standard suits, deconstructed or spliced coats, and wide-leg pants, women’s strength has been embodied in these design details, and they have also become the classic design items of Céline.
In its brand debut, Phoebe launched a bag that is still popular today-Cé line Box.
Then, continuing her magical power of creating "It Bag", Phoebe successively launched three bags that were too hot to work, namely:
Twisted Cabas that can hold the whole world, Luggage, a smiling face bag with various It Bag lists, and Céline Trio, a small square bag.
Clasp handbags in the autumn and winter 2017 series have also entered the ranks of It Bag.
On the front, the thin and flat shape seems to have no bright spot, and the slender metal buckle makes it look like a dry folder.
However, it is this retro modern style in the 1950 s and the texture of jade that makes it a must-have bag for hipsters.
The spring and summer of 2018 can be said to be the world of transparent PVC materials. Several big brands have successively come up with the design of PVC materials, and PVC can be seen from clothing to bag accessories.
This time, Phoebe decided to "rub" a wave of hot spots, and also launched a transparent handbag in her farewell work. The bag body was simply printed with the brand Logo and a few lines.
However, this transparent handbag can not only be sold, but also must be bought with the small wallet inside, and now many shops have sold out, which is really priceless.
The current trend of "ugly shoes" can be traced back to the source, and it was also brought by Phoebe.
As early as Cé line’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection, she brought fur slippers and furry high heels.
Now, if you look at Gucci’s fur loafers or Fenty Puma’s Mao Mao slippers, do you see the shadow of Céline?
Phoebe’s It Bag, or It Shoes, is actually inspired by clothing history or some national bag accessories, and then redesigned the combination.
For example, this shoe inspired by Moroccan Babouche slippers, the soles and uppers are made of soft leather, which is particularly good to wear, so it has become a famous "local product".
In the early spring series of Céline 2016, Phoebe brought an upgraded version of Babouche, with crossed shoelaces, pointed toe caps and a soft and comfortable sense of wearing on the feet. As soon as it was released, it was immediately sought after by many fashionable girls.
Also belonging to It Shoes, there is a thick heel shoe dubbed "Grandma’s Shoes".
It also uses soft leather as the vamp, and the elastic band is added at the mouth of the shoe. After wearing it, the foot will be completely wrapped, and the thick heel that looks very heavy makes it like the shoes in grandma’s shoe cabinet, hence the nickname.
Phoebe’s classic designs in Céline are by no means just those we have listed, and there are still many that have not been listed one by one.
The autumn and winter 2018 series released not long ago, although completed by the brand team, continues Phoebe’s design style well.
Anyway, Phoebe’s farewell has become a reality. We still have to look forward to Hedi Slimane’s debut in Céline in September and pay close attention to Phoebe Philo’s next move.
